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Overcoming Maps 3 - English

 

Soliloquies

Overcomingmaps 3

 

Soliloquies

 

by C. Krydz Ikwuemesi

I. “...You are the children of war and violence ...“
At the PACA-Nigeria Convention in Enugu in November 2001, Gabriel Okara, one of Nigeria’s most celebrated poets, was a special guest. He read some of his poems to the highly enthralled audience made up of artists, art teachers, and art students. In response to a comment during the open discussion, Okara said inter alia, in reference to the social situation in contemporary Africa , “... You are the children of war and violence…”


Okara was referring, in fact, to Africa’s youth who have been ground through the mill of untold violence and assorted disaster. I must hasten to add that youth in this context is to be defined to reflect a time-frame of between 40 and 50 years. Of course this could be an unusual kind of definition. But in this instance, I am looking at birth beyond the biological standpoint. I am looking at both biological birth and psychological rebirth in the period of post-independence in Africa. In other words, while some people have been born in Africa after their country’s attainment of independence, others were already born before independence and could be said to have been “born again” or reborn albeit psychologically with the birth of the new socio-political era. The two categories of people, however, carry a fair share of the crisis that has encircled the socio-political milieu in Africa in the post-independence era. It is not every country in Africa that has witnessed war. But the social conditions in some countries are as good or bad as a battlefield. This combines with other factors in shaping the consciousness of today’s Africa.


I have argued elsewhere that this situation has turned otherwise peaceful societies into jungles in Africa where the leaders see themselves not as William Blake’s “horses of instruction” but as divinely ordained tigers and baboons according to whose whim and caprices the citizens the logical squirrels and antelopes in the prevailing animal kingdom must live their own lives. In this scenario, the pursuit of the common good and excellence has taken a back seat and what obtains is the shameless privatisation of values and notions which otherwise would have one rational meaning in common parlance.


The danger in privatization as a philosophy is its propensity for a close affinity with individualism. It leads the perpetrators to define and interpret everything from their personal point of view and in the manner that suits them. This is, perhaps, the philosophy that informs statecraft, law making and enforcement in Africa, and the notion of leadership.


On the road from Lagos to Porto Novo and Cotonou, Lome to Quagadougou, Bamako to Accra, what one finds in the streets are faces of unhappy peoples, short-changed by comprador leaders who only create the kind of social conditions that would appeal mainly to the worst in their peoples. Unemployment is high. Crime rate has worsened. Humanity is grossly devalued. A few years ago, I would never have contemplated that human beings could be shot like chickens, especially by those who are paid to protect them. Yet people are shot like this by police and robbers in many African countries. Very rarely do governments respond logically. The usual response is propaganda aimed at inverting the obvious ugly reality.


But the snag is that if individual countries in Africa cannot attain peace and social security internally, how can they contribute to a peaceful continent? Beyond the allure of commerce, how many individuals would want to go to other countries with the kind of uncertainty that is everywhere? The average African sees the next country as some danger zone. Most citizens of Francophone Africa, for instance, have very weird notions of Anglophone African countries. This remains bizarre. And the governments on both sides have not done much to obviate the suspicion. Beyond OAU (now Africa Union) and ECOWAS and their endless conferences which seldom achieve practical results inside Africa, Africa remains badly atomised. Every year, as its affluent sons and daughters besiege resorts and holiday centres in Europe, Africa what should be the lively Eden of the modern world is left to the mercy of brutally efficient politicians and dare-devil traders. Social development, technological advancement, peace, and a flourishing tourism industry are among the ideas that fascinate Africa’s political leaders, but they have not the capacity to turn those powerful possibilities into sustainable reality.


II. And corruption runs in your veins
The PACA party has just arrived Le Galerie Marina Varuna, venue of Overcoming Maps 3 in Lome. It is about 630pm in the evening. We have been, here earlier in the day. And Djonda, the Co-ordinator of Overcoming Maps 3 in Togo has mentioned that the very end of the road on which the Galerie Marina was located is actually the border between Togo and Ghana. From the Marina Gallery, looking down the road, you can see a narrow stretch of the road separating the two countries. Ghana is literally fenced off.


But there is an opening on the wall overlooking the adjoining road where the Marina Gallery is located. It is not exactly a gate. But it looks like one. Inside, you can see people going about their businesses. Children run past as they play with one another.


Borders to me are highly policed places. If maps are the consummation of acts of violence as Armyel Garnoni says, borders are the instrument of validation and perpetuation of such acts. But this very border is not policed, or so I think. I am deeply fascinated. So I ask one of the Projects Assistants, Ugochukwu-Smooth Nzewi, to go down with me for one or two snap shots at this curious border. As Ugochukwu poses before the camera, two soldiers or police or gendarmes or whatever ran out from a shed at the corner of a building. This border is a trap of sorts, and it has just two animals.


Of the two animals, I was, perhaps, the more lightly priced, as I was the one who had wanted to take the photo. What followed may be described as an ignoble drama, but for me, it was one of those moments when I would feel ashamed for humanity, nay, Africa; one of those moments when the animal in man takes a front seat.


One of the two military men said something in Ewe and the other one, wearing bathroom slippers jumped on a waiting bike and rode away, while the one who spoke to him darted here and there like a caged, angry animal remembering wild life. The rider returned in no time to rejoin the drama. People gathered. The drama approached its denouement when the other officer took his mobile phone and started making mock phone calls to the military authorities to the effect that two strange men had come to photograph the border. When some of the Togolese participants in Overcoming Maps and some other people came to plead with the officers, they claimed they were standing there on the road and we came and started taking pictures without even greeting them. At that point the one wearing bathroom slippers threatened to collect my camcorder. When I played back the tape for people to see that I had recorded nothing, they shifted the goal post. They said that our coming to the spot was a very serious offence and we should pay CFA1O,000.00. Even when Mr. George Agbada, the Director of Galerie Marina, finally came to the scene to intervene, the two officers would not bulge. They insisted on collecting CFA5,000.00 or they would seize the cameras and call the authorities. Their trap, apparently, would not let go any animal it caught, at least not without chopping some chunk of flesh.


I was very sad. Our Togolese friends assured us that it was nothing that we should not brood over the incident. One of them said, “Ce n’est rien. id le miitaire c’estIaIoit”
Ce n’est rien! But it meant so much. It is reminiscent of the corrupt police, immigration and customs officers at the borders we went through. It reminded me of police road blocks in Nigeria (especially in the east) which were usually mounted, not always for security checks, but often to extort money from helpless road users. It reminded me that in Nigeria police men have shot at moving vehicles at times wounding passengers because the drivers refused to stop or to give them money. It reminded me of a story told by a pastor who travelled in the same taxi with me from Lagos to Porto Novo of how Beninese officials at the Seme border once wanted to beat him up because he refused to part with N5,000.00 from the N25,000.00 they found on him while he was travelling sometime in 2002. It was, for me, a vivid reaffirmation of the absence of freedom in much of Africa, a place where basic human rights are often misconstrued as luxury.


In most parts of Africa, the so-called disciplined forces (Army, Police, Navy, etc.) are the most undisciplined institutions in the community. In some countries, the uniform is a license to lawlessness and recklessness. This fact is the bane of Africa as far as the problem of corruption is concerned. Most African governments make a window dressing out of the war against corruption, as they never deal with the fundamentals of the matter. Otherwise, how could a people say that they are fighting corruption when they have a very corrupt police force? Who would enforce the laws against corruption in such a country?


I must point out at this juncture; however, that corruption is not limited to Africa. It goes on in and outside official circles in most parts of the world. But it has become so endemic in the private and public systems in Africa that it now seems to have an African identity. Perhaps, corruption is a by-product of the system of ‘prior-appreciation” which, Ali Mazrui argues, was prevalent in pre-colonial Africa; that is, the system where someone would show appreciation in anticipation of a favour or a good turn. But in those days, “prior appreciation” was valued in kola nuts or yams or chickens. Today, from the dashing officers at the borders or on the highroads up to the brocade-wearing ministers and heads of states none would deal in kola nuts and chickens. It has to be money, from very laughable sums to disturbing millions. Corruption is thus also part of the by-products of the mismanagement and neo-colonisation that encircle Africa in the post-independence era. The politics of deprivation and impoverishment that has informed the creed of leadership in Africa has led to the rise of the survival-of-the-fittest syndrome, a situation where the significance of the narrative of the self must override the more enduring pursuit of truth, equity and excellence, a situation where each individual must press his advantage with every resource at his command. From ministers, vice-chancellors, civil servants and policemen, everybody, all are quick to fall to the temptation of abuse of office. But, perhaps, the case of the law enforcement agents is more painful, especially when it is considered as a dangerous instance of role reversal. For when the watchman becomes the thief, the human philosophy of natural logic and the concept of order are perforated and the result as it is now in most African countries can never be a picnic.

III. Little gods of terror...
Much of the problems of modern Africa are a hangover of colonisation. This fact is most palpable .in the relation between the leaders and the people. In Africa, the leader is often the master and the people, the servants. This, perhaps, explains the personality cult that surrounds the notion of leadership in Africa and the reason why some countries - Togo, Benin, Zimbabwe, Namibia, Libya, for instance - have very durable presidents. In Africa, the leader is a little god; authority is recklessly abused. In all situations, the police and the armed forces are the vehicle for the abuse of political and at times moral authority.


Of course, the police and the armed forces are a symbol of political authority and social order. Since authority flows from the highest echelons of society down to the lowest, it is only logical that cancer is subtly introduced into society when authority is abused from the top. This scenario paints a vivid picture of the situation in most African countries where values have been shamelessly inverted, where words which should have one rational meaning in common parlance and usage are flagrantly redefined. If the creed of governance in Africa is written on the tablet of corruption, violence, and intolerance, the concept and enforcement of law, order, and justice must be very skewed indeed as a matter of logic.


But law, order, and justice can only be contemplated in a place where they really exist. Anyone would be quick to point out that African nations do have laws and that the concept of justice and order are not alien to them. Yet I insist that having laws written down but never propey implemented is as good as no laws. The same goes for order and justice. The idea of order and justice without practical and practicable dimensions translates to nothingness. In the hellholes that characterise most of Africa’s cities, law, justice, and order are tall dreams. Insecurity is high and violence can be two-a-penny. In this entire ugly scenario, the police stand out as a major factor, in its position as the presumed symbol of order in society. But the reality in most African cities readily problematises any such symbolism. What with the brutality and dishonesty that have become so endemic among the (un)disciplined forces in these parts. How could corrupt political and economic systems beget a social order based on justice and the rule of law? In the West African subregion, it is always fashionable to point at Nigeria as a quintessence of a lawless or corrupt society. But travelling through Lagos, Porto-Novo, Cotonou, Lome, Kara, Ouagadougou, Bobo-dioulasso, Cinkasse, Bamako, Kumasi, Accra, and Cape Coast as a participant in Overcoming Maps 3, I saw the same problems running through the countries. They may exist in varying degrees. But they are there. You could see them in the streets, on the faces of the people, too. Psychologically, you could “see” them in the air, flying like ugly buntings. Then you only need to reach a border to get a confirmation or, when you get to a roadblock somewhere on the highroad. It is, perhaps, worse at the borders. The police, customs, and immigration officers at all the borders we passed through share one thing in common: corruption. They have lost all sense of humanity and seem to compete with the lower animals in bestiality. In the cities and on the roads, the police and gendarmes could be nice or nasty; it depends on how the spirit moves them and, perhaps, how lucky one is as a traveller. Their attitude both at the borders and in the cities was not circumscribed by the statutes of the law. Which law? After all, is the police not the law, and the law, the police?


Le militaire, c’est Ia Ioi ici! That was what Togolese Dodji Klu said to me in Lome when we had problem with the fire-eating gendarmes at the Ghana-Togo border near Galerie Marina. But KIu was wrong. Perhaps, he lacked the right word to describe “le militaire”, which includes the police. “Gods” may be a better word. Yes. “Gods”. In much of Africa, the policemen are gods. Little gods of terror... That is what they are. And you cannot challenge them.


How could you when their position, image, and essence seem to be as divinely ordained as those of their principals - the mayors (local government chairmen), governors, presidents and all shades of political hooligans?


This is probably why democracy has refused to work successfully in most parts of Africa. Like the concepts of law, justice, and order in modern Africa, the notion of democracy is highly misconstrued. What is known as democracy in most parts of Africa is often the decentralisation of corruption and violence. Such a system, with the attendant burdens and curses, can only be sustained by the activities of unruly (disciplined) forces. Otherwise, the disciplined forces should ask questions. Of course, in Africa, the disciplined forces, especially the army, have challenged the status quo by way of coup d’etat. But experience in many countries has shown that military politicians are merely an alternate face of a very ugly coin.


The emergent truth that is most self-evident is that Africa, generally, is not a free society. Freedom is built on truth, equity, and justice, avidly guided by the rule of law. Of course, there is no ideal society in practice. All societies are tending towards the ideal. But Africa, one must concede, is very far indeed from the ideal. Unfortunately, her little gods of terror, personified by the present crop of custodians of political, legal and military authorities, cannot chaperon her in the right directions.

IV. The triumph of nescience: God! God! and no good.
Part of the curse of neo-colonial Africa is the albatross represented by the new visions of God and religion in the continent. Since the colonial encounter, Africa has been a religious bazaar, a playground of religious and other fancies, where anything can happen.
No doubt, the continuing failure of political and social institutions in Africa since independence has created a situation where Africans generally have lost faith in the centralising myths that shape their national destinies. Rather than address the social problems of their various countries frontally when the need arises, Africans often resort to prayer and crusades. Every problem, including bad governance and corrupt leadership is a spiritual-religious problem and must be prayed out of existence. And if the political and military leaders can no longer be trusted, why not the spiritual ones or any bible-carrying, sol-disant reverend?


So Africa becomes one huge fantasy land where religion is the fastest growing industry, where there are churches everywhere, where everybody in the street is “born-again” (ne de nouveau), where there are “born- again” ministers and presidents and yet tyranny is cheap and the abuse of human rights is normal. The resultant geography is then a collage of contradictions, a place where God is cheap and meaningless, where the notions of truth and good are recklessly privatised.


Some people would argue that the preponderate religiosity in contemporary Africa is a hangover of Africa’s preoccupation with the spiritual essences of life and other phenomena in pristine times. Yet in pre-colonial Africa, values were much more commonly held and morality was perceived from a communal perspective. In the present times, the atomization of the notion of morality and the vulgarization of its meaning is the bane of development in the private and public sphere in Africa of today. This probably stems from the prevalent materialism, greed, and selfishness which are byproducts of the failure of social institutions.
In this situation, the purpose of life degenerates into a miserable rat-race for eternity, an attempt to corner and dominate the “world to come”. The world of here and now suffers, as so much is taken from it and so little is put back to keep it going for ourselves and our children. In other words, there is something apocalyptic about contemporary society in Africa; a rapture-oriented society cannot plan for the future, as its vision is beclouded by otherworldly aspirations.


There is no doubt that Africa has arrived at her Dark Ages. Any discerning person can draw vivid analogies between the present scenario in most parts of Africa and what Europe experienced in the dying centuries of the first millennium and the opening ones of the second. I often tell my friends that it is usual for barbarians to take over the leadership of countries or regions for a while only for them to be swept away by the unrelenting tides of history. But again, one must recognise that history is not just an abstract concept or mere branch of scholarship. It is a living product of human experience. Its potency or otherwise may depend on the will and vision of those who characterise it. So it is one thing for barbarism to gain ascendancy, and it is another for the people to attain the right level of consciousness needed to reverse the trend. History, in its glorious cadence, does not run on the side of those who decline to act in the face of challenge. That Africans have resorted to religion in these trying times of their history is part of the surprises and contradictions of post- independence. Religion in itself is no danger to the advancement of society. If anything, it is one of the nutrients any progressive society would need in the endless cycle of collective evolution. But when a given society decides to choke itself on one nutrient alone (in this case, religion), it runs the risk of social kwashiorkor. The other face of religion as one of the elements in the terror that is in the heart of post- modernism has been fully exposed in most African countries where Pentecostalism has degenerated into mass movements or where Islam has lent its cloak to the convulsive violence that drives politics in Africa.


As Jonathan Sacks has succinctly put it, “Religion, the great truth about man’s search for meaning, trespassed during the Middle Ages into two realms not its own: factual knowledge and political power. The result was ignorance and persecution”. Not only has the same happened in Africa, not only has the result been the same; religion has had its greatest triumph as “opium for the masses” in Africa. Africa’s neocolonial leaders seem to have also seen in religion a veritable weapon of war - war against the usually down--trodden, impoverished majority who must never attain a good measure of consciousness if the prevailing inversion of values and norms must continue. As Africa writhes in the grip of fire-eating opportunists masquerading as leaders, her sons and daughters are at prayer, a kind of truancy from reality. As heaven and hell (rather than man) become the “measure of all things”, genuine social development and the pursuit of excellence suffer. After about two decades of excessive spirituality built on dishonesty and fundamental selfishness, the chickens are coming home to roost. The implications are vivid enough in the domains of creativity (including the visual arts, music, and the litero-performing arts), technology, social amenities, and the convoluted systems of education. There is something drastically wrong with a society where there are the greatest number of “born again” (including political leaders, police men and soldiers), “prayer warriors” and all kinds of clerics and where evil, crime and injustice persist in a downward spiral. Perhaps Sacks paints the picture more luridly when he says that “A society in which we are afraid to walk in streets and parks, or to open the door to a stranger, or to engage in debate with an audience which does not share our views, has become a less free environment, because there are fewer things we can do ‘freely’ without precautions. When confidence in order breaks down, the appeal to authoritarian politics rapidly rises To this, I must add “authoritarian religion”. When religion jostles to become an iron umbrella that saves people from the rain rather than a tool that helps them to go through, and enjoy, the rain, it takes side with the terror that it should normally address.


Although experience shows that religion does not necessarily make people better human beings, it has functioned in certain instances as a possible deterrent against those who would do evil in society. In the highly tormented history of post (neo)-colonial Africa, religion, as in some other parts of the world, has created more problems than it can ever solve. But the situation inside Africa remains very dangerous, as Africans in their newfangled cargo cult attitude seem to place on religion’s shoulders responsibilities that normally belong elsewhere. Indeed, the heavy burden makes nonsense of religion and holds social and technological development captive. It is quite alarming that Africa - the continent of promise danced and clapped her way through the last century. That she appears satisfied and ready to pray and dance her way through the challenges of the 21st century is part of the puzzle of the century itself.

 

V. AFRICA: Questa notte senza fine!

This endless night! (questa notte senza fine!)
I am exhausted. I can’t bear it.
0 God in heaven, have mercy on us.
Will this weeping never end?
What can I doto help her,
My darling, my beloved? (cara mia, cara mia)

It should not be strange that I conclude this piece with the above lines from an article by Garrison Keillor published in the Time magazine of April 13, 1998. I have not been able to understand what Keillor was trying to satirise in his article. But I think the verses I am appropriating encapsulate my feeling for my continent, tormented by her leaders and peoples.


Questa notte senza fine! For much of Africa, there is no where to draw the line between colonization and post- colonialism. The emergent - hybrid neo-colonisation - is a veritable nightmare in itself, a brutally long night. As the years run by, the same problems tend to recur, like the spirit of the unsung dead.


And they are unsung, unaddressed - these recurrent problems of social development. In Africa, problems are never really addressed. Governments are adept in shifting goal posts, postponing doomsday. Lasting solutions to problems and issues are never attractive. Government policies lack continuity and long term vision. Development is on a hit-and-run basis.


After about four decades of independence, the result has been most depressing all over. Every sphere of life is shrouded in an ugly pallor. From the systems of education up to the corridors of power and politics, all are ridden with artificial problems which have become very durable indeed.


Travelling between; Lagos, Cotonou, Lome, Ouagadougou, Bamako, and Accra, I have seen the same problems. They have eyes. The problems have faces, askance and disgruntled. They are the moving spirit behind mendicant children walking the streets, in the cold, in the harmattan, in the acidic sun, begging for alms, for daily bread. These faces are the worrisome visage of Africa, the one that lives by the stream but doomed to wash her hands with spittle, the one that has resourceful sons and daughters and opulent in-laws, and yet they cannot help her. They cannot, because the lunatics have taken over the asylum; logic, reason, and order have been inverted.


What can I do to help her,/my darling, my beloved? I could not help but feel like the “father” in Keillor’s article as we drove through the streets in the different countries. How can I help her?! But can anybody really help her? Or her children? They may be resourceful; but I am told they are clowns also. How do you rescue clowns from the allure of the circus?
Perhaps I should pray? I could pray. Like a typical African. But I would borrow the prayer. I should borrow the prayeroftheAmerican Josiah Gilbert Holland: “God give us men”and (I add) save us from the scourge of masquerades and little gods, so that our future generations do not bite sand! Yes. You can do it, oh Lord, (a Ia Keillor) if only You would walk across the Atlantic and grant this poor woman a few good men!
 

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